MORPHOLOGICAL CLASSIFICATION OF GARMENT COMPONENTS IN THE PROCESS OF FORM FORMATION
Abstract
The article examines the morphological classification of garment components as a key instrument in the process of shaping the three-dimensional form of a product. The methodological framework of the study is based on a systemic and structural–morphological approach to garment design, which integrates traditional patternmaking methods with contemporary digital and engineering-based modeling technologies. This approach makes it possible to optimize the parameters of form-generating elements such as darts, relief seams, and yokes, and to ensure accuracy of spatial form organization, fit stability, and the performance characteristics of garments under digital design conditions. A classification of garment components according to their role in volume formation is proposed, distinguishing primary form-generating, secondary, corrective, and adaptive (special) elements. It has been established that primary components determine the basic spatial structure and silhouette of the garment, while secondary and corrective components refine local plasticity, ensure compositional integrity, and maintain form stability. Adaptive components, in turn, are aimed at the ergonomic adaptation of the garment to body movements and at increasing the level of wearing comfort. Special attention is paid to the relationship between the morphology of garment components and the geometric mechanisms involved in transforming a planar textile surface into a spatial shell, which allows darts, relief seams, and cut-ins to be interpreted as active generators of volume. It is demonstrated that the application of a morphological classification creates the prerequisites for a transition from intuitive, descriptive design practices to controlled geometric and algorithmic modeling of garment constructions. Thus, the proposed classification enables a systematic assessment of the influence of structural components on the spatial structure and fit of garments, integrating morphological analysis into contemporary design technologies and CAD modeling. This contributes to improved accuracy of design decisions, enhanced controllability of the form-generation process, and the development of garments with predictable aesthetic and functional properties.
References
2. Parametric design of garment pattern based on body dimensions / K. Liu, C. Zhu, X. Tao,
P. Bruniaux, X. Zeng. International Journal of Industrial Ergonomics. 2019. Vol. 72. P. 212–221.DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ergon.2019.05.012.
3. Пашкевич К. Л. Проектування тектонічних форм одягу з урахуванням властивостей тканин : монографія. Київ : ПП «НВЦ «Профі», 2015. 364 с.
4. Проектування модного одягу на основі принципів параметричного дизайну / М. В. Колосніченко, Н. В. Чупріна, Т. Ф. Кротова, Т. М. Олішевська. Art and Design. 2020. № 1 (09). С. 129–141.
5. Development of a technology for interactive design of garments using add-ons of a virtual mannequin / A. Slavinska, O. Zakharkevich, S. Kuleshova, O. Syrotenko. Eastern-European Journal of Enterprise Technologies. 2018. Vol. 6, No. 1 (96). P. 28–39. DOI: https://doi.org/10.15587/1 729-4061.2018.148984.
6. Ніколаєва Т. І., Тіхонова О. В. Дослідження впливу конструктивних параметрів на формоутворення плечових виробів у середовищі CAD/CAM. Легка промисловість. 2022. № 1. С. 22–29.
7. Sayem A. S. M., Kennon R., Clarke N. 3D CAD systems for the clothing industry. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education. 2019. Vol. 12, No. 2. P. 123–124. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/ 17543266.2019.1604733.
8. McQuillan H. Hybrid morphological modeling for zero-waste garment design. Fashion Practice. 2020. Vol. 12, No. 2. P. 237–261.
9. Tao X., Chen Y. A review of 3D garment generation and simulation techniques. Textile Research Journal. 2021. Vol. 91, No. 17–18. P. 2159–2183.
10. Computational pattern making from 3D garment models / N. Pietroni, C. Dumery, R. Falque, M. Liu, T. A. Vidal-Calleja, O. Sorkine-Hornung. ACM Transactions on Graphics. 2022. Vol. 41, No. 4. P. 1–14.
11. Кісіль М. Концепції формоутворення костюму в контексті сучасних тенденцій у fashion-дизайні. Актуальні проблеми сучасного дизайну : зб. матеріалів Міжнар. наук.-практ. конф., м. Київ, 20 квіт. 2018 р. : у 2 т. Київ : КНУТД, 2018. Т. 1. С. 196–198.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.


