INFLUENCE OF DIFFERENT DEGREES OF TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESSING ON THE QUALITY INDICATORS OF TECHNICAL HEMP
Abstract
This study presents a comprehensive investigation of the physico-mechanical, chemical, and morphological characteristics of scutched fibers from industrial hemp of the Sofiya variety at different levels of technological processing, including coarse and fine combing. The main aim of the research was to determine the influence of technological processing on fiber properties, evaluate their suitability for textile and technical applications, and establish optimal processing conditions for producing high-quality yarn. The results showed that fibers obtained after coarse combing exhibited high strength (average breaking load 27.28 daN), a linear density of 34.09 tex, and a high cellulose content (73.95 %). These indicators suggest the potential for textile applications, provided further intensive secondary processing, and are supported by light microscopy results confirming the integrity and uniformity of fiber bundles. Simultaneously, the high cellulose content indicates the economic feasibility of using the Sofiya variety for cellulose-based products. With less aggressive mechanical treatment, the fiber can also be applied in technical fields; however, organoleptic analysis revealed color heterogeneity and local variations in retting, which may lead to losses of fibrous mass. Fibers obtained after additional fine combing demonstrated an average breaking load of 23.25 daN, a low linear density of 9.65 tex, and a cellulose content of 71.8 %. Microscopic analysis showed a high tendency for fiber splitting and uniformity of elementary fibers, resembling cotton fiber structure and providing high hygroscopicity. Such fibers are suitable for the production of fine yarn (No. 40 and above) used in premium textile products. The results confirm that the degree of technological processing directly affects the physico-mechanical, chemical, and morphological properties of the fibers. The application of modern fiber processing technologies, such as cottonization or wet spinning, ensures the required softness, uniformity, and high textile value of the product. These findings can be used to optimize industrial hemp processing, improve yarn and textile quality, and promote economically efficient production of high-quality industrial hemp products
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