POSSIBILITIES OF USING BAST RAW MATERIALS IN INNOVATIVE TEXTILE PRODUCTS

Abstract

The article analyzes the possibilities of using bast crops in innovative textile products. In particular, for textile products, it is proposed to use modified hemp fibers, since their cultivation is typical for Ukraine. The work analyzes the criteria for the impact of hemp fiber on textile products and identifies negative factors, in particular on textile footwear. In order to determine this factor, the work investigated the natural properties of modified hemp fiber and its chemical composition. It was determined that the chemical composition of modified hemp fiber has a significant impact on its physical and mechanical indicators. In particular, the chemical composition of hemp has the greatest impact on the relative elongation at break, which is quite high – 17.2%. With such an elongation at break, one hundred percent use of this raw material in yarn for the manufacture of dimensionally stable products is not recommended. It was also found that a high relative elongation is accompanied by plastic deformation of the fiber due to its chemical structure. To improve the natural properties of modified hemp fiber, special steaming modes were proposed. After steaming, a re-analysis of the properties and chemical composition was carried out. It was determined that the steaming method of the fiber had a positive effect on its elongation at break index and improved the chemical composition that affects its plastic deformation. High-temperature steam under pressure destroyed pectin substances by 4%, which bind microfibrils. This led to a decrease in the ability of the fibers to elongate due to a decrease in the connectivity between the components. Hemicelluloses under the influence of steam underwent hydrolysis, became less elastic. Their reduced content (by the lowest indicators by 7%) makes the fiber more rigid and reduces its plasticity, but not critically, leaving a certain percentage (3.0-7.8%), which gives the shoe fabric the necessary quality properties during operation. The proposed method for improving bast fiber hemp raw materials allows expanding the range of innovative products from this crop.